Frequently Asked Questions

The main difference is size, flow capacity, and target tank size — here’s a breakdown:

• Standard Edition (16-20mm / 5/8″ – 3/4″) — Designed for most home aquariums up to ~75 gallons with standard canister filters. Perfect for community tanks, planted aquariums, betta tanks, and small cichlid setups. The standard magnetic fish toilet fits approximately 85% of consumer-grade aquarium filters. Price: $42.00 – $49.00
• Monster Edition (25mm / 1″) — Built for high-flow, heavy-duty systems including large predator tanks, 100+ gallon setups, and pond filters. If you’re keeping messy fish like oscars, flowerhorns, or goldfish, the Monster Edition’s larger chamber and wider plumbing handle the extra bioload with ease. Price: $52.00 – $63.00

The Magnetic Fish Toilet is compatible with nearly all canister filters and sump systems using standard hose sizes:

Standard Edition — Fits 16mm (5/8″), 18mm, and 20mm (3/4″) hoses. This covers the vast majority of consumer canister filters including Fluval, Eheim, Oase, Sunsun, AquaClear, and many more.

Monster Edition — Fits 25mm (1″) hoses. For larger canister filters, high-flow systems, pond filters, and commercial-grade aquarium equipment.

How to check compatibility in 30 seconds: Simply measure the inner diameter (ID) of your filter’s intake hose. If it falls within the ranges above, the fish toilet filter will fit perfectly — no modifications needed.

Yes, absolutely. The magnetic aquarium filter uses flexible stepped silicone connectors that create a water-tight seal across a range of hose sizes:

• Standard Edition: Seals securely from 16mm to 20mm (5/8″ – 3/4″) — that’s a 4mm tolerance range
• Monster Edition: Seals securely around 25mm (1″) with slight flexibility for metric/imperial variations

The stepped connector design means slightly smaller or larger hoses still get a firm, leak-proof grip. The silicone material compresses slightly to accommodate variations.

If you’re on the edge between sizes:

• At 20mm+ and your system has high flow → Go with the Monster Edition (25mm)
• At 16-20mm with standard flow → Standard Edition is perfect

Yes — we regularly help customers with non-standard and custom aquarium setups.

Aquarium plumbing can get complex, especially with DIY filters, vintage equipment, custom-built sumps, or European/Japanese filter brands with unusual hose sizes. We’ve helped customers solve all kinds of unique plumbing challenges.

How the custom adapter process works:

1. Contact us via our Contact page with your filter model, hose measurements, and photos of your current plumbing setup
2. Our technical team reviews and recommends the best adapter configuration
3. If a custom 3D-printed or machined adapter is needed, we’ll provide a fair quote
4. Most custom solutions ship within 5-7 business days

Many unusual setups can actually be solved with off-the-shelf plumbing reducers or adapters that we can include with your order at minimal cost. We’ve yet to encounter a filter system we couldn’t work with!

Three configurations, same powerful waste extraction — choose based on your setup preferences and tank type:

• Universal Glass-Mount — The classic and most popular configuration. Secures magnetically to the rim of your aquarium glass for instant, tool-free waste interception. Best for easy access, visibility, and quick installation. Works with both rimless and framed tanks. Most popular choice for beginners and hobbyists.
• Universal Glass-Mount + Surface Skimmer — Same great pre-filter with an added surface skimmer attachment that removes protein film, dust, and floating debris from the water surface. Perfect for planted aquariums, betta tanks, and any setup prone to surface oil slicks. The skimmer also improves gas exchange at the surface.
• Hidden Cabinet Inline — Installed inline inside your aquarium stand or cabinet for a completely clean, invisible look. Great for display tanks, show tanks, and minimalist setups where you don’t want any equipment visible. Works with both canister and sump systems. Standard Edition only.

Yes — the Magnetic Fish Toilet works with sealed canister filters and sump systems:

• Canister Filters (Fluval, Eheim, Oase, Sunsun, Penn-Plax, etc.) — Works perfectly! Install it on the intake line before your canister to intercept fish waste before it reaches your filter media. This is the most popular and effective setup.
• Sump Systems — Absolutely. Use the Hidden Cabinet Inline version and plumb it before your return pump or in a dedicated pre-filter chamber. Many reef keepers and freshwater sump users swear by this setup for reducing detritus buildup. Note: the sump must use a sealed pump — the pre-filter requires a sealed canister filter or water pump to create the necessary suction.
• Internal / Submersible Filters — Works with most submersible filters that have accessible intake tubing or a way to plumb an external pre-filter.

Note: The Magnetic Fish Toilet is NOT compatible with HOB (Hang-On-Back) filters — it requires a sealed canister filter or water pump to create the necessary suction.

The key requirement is having accessible intake hose or tubing that the pre-filter can connect to. If you’re unsure about your specific setup, just send us a photo and we’ll let you know if it’s compatible!

The best aquarium filter for 2026 depends on your tank size, fish type, and budget — but here’s our expert breakdown:

For most freshwater tanks (10-55 gallons): A quality canister filter paired with a magnetic pre-filter is the gold standard. Brands like Fluval (FX series), Eheim (Professional series), and Oase (BioMaster) consistently top the charts for reliability, filtration efficiency, and quiet operation.

For small tanks (under 10 gallons): Quality sponge filters work great. For bettas and low-flow fish, a sponge filter is often ideal.

For large tanks (75+ gallons) or messy fish: A sump system or high-capacity canister filter (like the Fluval FX6) is recommended. Add a magnetic fish toilet pre-filter to dramatically reduce maintenance and extend media life.

Key trends for 2026:

• Smart filters with app monitoring and flow control
• Pre-filter systems like the Magnetic Fish Toilet that reduce maintenance frequency
• UV sterilizer integration for algae and pathogen control
• Energy-efficient DC pump designs

Each filter type has pros and cons. Here’s how to choose based on your setup:

🐠 Canister Filters

• Best for: 20-100 gallon tanks, planted tanks, community tanks
• Pros: Excellent filtration capacity, customizable media, quiet, hides under the tank
• Cons: More expensive upfront, can be tricky to prime, harder to access for quick cleaning
• Pro tip: Pair with a fish toilet filter to dramatically reduce how often you need to open the canister for cleaning.

🏊 Sump Systems

• Best for: 75+ gallon tanks, reef tanks, messy fish, serious hobbyists
• Pros: Massive filtration capacity, hides all equipment, stable water parameters, easy to maintain
• Cons: Most expensive option, requires a drilled tank or overflow box, more complex plumbing. Not compatible with the Magnetic Fish Toilet unless the sump system uses a sealed pump — the pre-filter requires sealed canister filter or water pump to create the necessary suction.

Bottom line: Start with a canister filter for most setups. Upgrade to a sump if you’re serious about the hobby or have large/messy fish. Add a Magnetic Fish Toilet to any compatible system to reduce maintenance. Note: The Magnetic Fish Toilet only works with sealed canister filters or water pumps — it will not work with HOB (Hang-On-Back) filters or unsealed sump systems.

Messy fish like oscars, flowerhorns, goldfish, and large cichlids produce a LOT of waste — you need serious filtration:

Our top recommendation for messy fish:

1. A high-capacity canister filter (Fluval FX6, FX4, or similar) sized for at LEAST 2x your tank volume. For an oscar in a 75-gallon tank, go with a filter rated for 150+ gallons.
2. Add a Magnetic Fish Toilet (Monster Edition) as a pre-filter. This is a game-changer for messy fish — it catches the majority of solid fish waste before it even enters your canister filter, drastically reducing how often you need to clean your filter media.
3. Consider a sump system if budget allows. A wet/dry trickle filter or sump provides the best biological filtration for heavy bioloads.

Why the best filter for oscar fish and best filter for flowerhorn includes a pre-filter:

• Oscars and flowerhorns produce large, frequent waste that clogs filter sponges quickly
• Without a pre-filter, you’ll be cleaning your canister every 1-2 weeks
• With a magnetic fish toilet, you just twist and flush every 1-3 days — 3 seconds, no disassembly
• Your biological filter media stays cleaner and healthier longer

Absolutely — a good aquarium filter is the single most important piece of equipment for a healthy tank. Here’s why:

Biological filtration (the most important type): Beneficial bacteria colonize your filter media and convert toxic ammonia (from fish waste and uneaten food) into nitrite, then into relatively harmless nitrate. Without this nitrogen cycle, your fish will get sick or die within days.

Mechanical filtration: Traps solid waste particles, keeping your water clear and preventing debris from breaking down and polluting the water.

Chemical filtration: Activated carbon and other media remove dissolved organic compounds, odors, and discoloration.

Water circulation: Filters move water, which:

• Distributes heat evenly
• Brings nutrients and CO2 to aquarium plants
• Prevents dead spots where waste can accumulate
• Promotes gas exchange at the surface

Is a high-end filter worth the investment? Yes — a quality filter paired with a magnetic aquarium filter pre-filter will save you hours of maintenance and keep your fish healthier. Think of it as an investment in your tank’s long-term success.

The best lighting for a fish tank depends on what you’re keeping — here’s our complete guide:

🐟 Fish-only tanks (no live plants): You just need enough light to see your fish and make them look good. Any basic LED light in the 6500K-7000K range will work fine. Aim for about 0.25-0.5 watts per gallon. You don’t need high-intensity lighting for fish-only tanks.

🌱 Low-tech planted tanks (moss, anubias, java fern): Look for an LED light with a full spectrum around 6500K and 0.5-1 watt per gallon. These low-light plants don’t need much intensity.

🌿 Medium to high-tech planted tanks: You’ll need a quality planted aquarium light with proper PAR output. Look for:

• Full spectrum — 5000K-7000K with enhanced red and blue wavelengths
• Adjustable brightness — dimmable LEDs are a must for planted tanks
• PAR rating — 30-50 µmol for medium plants, 50-100+ for high-light plants like carpeting plants
• Timer function — consistent photoperiods are crucial for plant growth and algae prevention

What to avoid:

• Cheap “submersible” LED strips that aren’t designed for aquarium use
• Lights with only blue LEDs (they look cool but don’t support plant growth or natural fish colors)
• Incandescent or fluorescent bulbs (inefficient, generate too much heat)

For most hobbyists, a quality full spectrum aquarium LED light with adjustable brightness and a built-in timer is the best choice. It’ll work for both fish viewing and growing most common aquatic plants.

Planted aquariums need specific lighting to support photosynthesis. Here’s what you need to know:

Key specifications to look for:

• Spectrum: A full spectrum light in the 5000K-7000K range with enhanced red (620-660nm) and blue (430-460nm) wavelengths. This matches what plants use most efficiently for photosynthesis.
• Intensity (PAR): PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is the most important metric for planted tanks.
  • Low light plants: 15-30 µmol (anubias, java fern, mosses, crypts)
  • Medium light plants: 30-60 µmol (most stem plants, swords, vals)
  • High light plants: 60-100+ µmol (carpeting plants, red plants, HC Cuba)
• Dimmable: Being able to adjust brightness is essential. Start low and gradually increase as your plants acclimate.
• Timer function: A consistent 6-10 hour photoperiod is critical. Most planted tank lights have built-in timers or you can use an external plug timer.

Lighting by tank size (rough guide):

• 10 gallon (20″ long): 10-20W LED full spectrum
• 20 gallon long (30″ long): 20-40W LED full spectrum
• 55 gallon (48″ long): 40-80W LED full spectrum
• 75 gallon (48″ long, taller): 60-100W LED full spectrum

A full spectrum aquarium light provides light across the entire visible wavelength range, mimicking natural sunlight — which is essential for both plant growth and fish health.

Understanding the spectrum:

• Blue light (400-480nm): Essential for photosynthesis — plants absorb blue light efficiently. Blue light also enhances fish coloration and promotes compact plant growth. Too much blue can cause excessive algae growth.
• Green light (480-560nm): Less absorbed by plants (that’s why they look green!), but green light penetrates deeper and helps with overall plant health and appearance.
• Red light (620-660nm): Also critical for photosynthesis. Red light stimulates stem elongation and flowering in aquatic plants. Red light is especially important for red-colored plant species.
• Far-red (700-750nm): Affects plant morphology and can influence growth patterns.
• White light (full spectrum blend): Combines all wavelengths — essential for natural color rendering and overall tank aesthetics. A true full spectrum light should include white LEDs alongside blue and red channels.

Why “full spectrum” matters:

• ✅ Supports healthy plant photosynthesis across all growth stages
• ✅ Brings out natural colors in fish (especially reds and blues)
• ✅ Looks more natural and pleasing to the human eye
• ✅ Supports overall aquarium ecosystem health

What to look for on the package: Terms like “full spectrum,” “6500K,” “plant growth LED,” or specific wavelength ranges listed (430nm blue, 660nm red, etc.). The best aquarium lights provide a balanced spectrum with enhanced red and blue channels for optimal plant growth.

Myth busting: “Daylight” or “cool white” LEDs around 6500K are technically full spectrum, but the best planted tank lights have specifically tuned red and blue peaks for maximum photosynthetic efficiency.

USB aquarium lights can work for very small, low-demand setups — but they have significant limitations:

When USB lights are fine:

• Nano tanks (under 5 gallons): A USB LED clip-on light can provide enough light for a betta tank or a small shrimp tank with low-light plants like java moss or anubias nana petite.
• Desktop aquariums: If you just want basic viewing light for a small fish bowl or desktop tank, USB lights are convenient and affordable.
• Temporary or quarantine tanks: When you need a quick, portable light source.

Limitations of USB aquarium lights:

• Low power output: Most USB lights are only 5-10W, which isn’t enough for medium or high-light plants in anything larger than 5 gallons.
• Poor spectrum quality: Cheap USB lights often use generic white LEDs that don’t have the optimized red and blue wavelengths plants need.
• No dimming or timer: Budget USB lights rarely have these essential features for planted tanks.
• Build quality: Many USB lights are cheaply made and may fail quickly in the humid aquarium environment.
• Heat issues: Some USB LEDs run hot and can raise water temperature in very small tanks.

Our recommendation: If you have a 5-gallon or larger tank, especially with live plants, invest in a proper aquarium LED light with a real driver, dimming capability, and a good spectrum. The difference in plant growth and overall tank health will be night and day.

Lighting a planted aquarium properly is about finding the right balance between light, nutrients, and CO2 — here’s your step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Choose the right light intensity

• Start with low to medium light (30-50 µmol PAR at substrate level) — you can always increase later
• Use a full spectrum planted aquarium light with enhanced red and blue wavelengths
• Dimmable lights are highly recommended so you can adjust as needed

Step 2: Set your photoperiod

• Start with 6-8 hours per day — this is the sweet spot for most planted tanks
• Use a timer (built-in or external) for consistency — irregular lighting causes algae
• Consider a “ramp up / ramp down” feature if your light supports it — mimics sunrise/sunset and is easier on fish and plants

Step 3: Balance with nutrients and CO2

• More light = more nutrient demand. If you increase light, you must also increase fertilization
• For high-light tanks (>60 µmol), you’ll likely need CO2 injection to prevent algae and promote healthy plant growth
• For low-light tanks, liquid fertilizer once or twice a week is usually sufficient

Step 4: Monitor and adjust

• If you see algae on plants or glass: your light is too high for your nutrient/CO2 level — reduce light or increase nutrients
• If plants are tall and leggy (stretching toward the light): not enough light
• If plants are yellowing: could be nutrient deficiency or light spectrum issue

The ideal lighting duration depends on your tank type — here’s what we recommend:

🐟 Fish-only tanks: 8-10 hours per day. Fish need a day/night cycle just like we do, but they don’t use light for energy like plants do. Too much light in a fish-only tank can cause algae blooms.

🌱 Low-tech planted tanks (low-light plants): 8-10 hours per day. Plants like anubias, java fern, and mosses don’t need intense lighting, so a longer photoperiod at lower intensity works well.

🌿 Medium-tech planted tanks: 7-8 hours per day. When you have medium-light plants and moderate light intensity, a 7-8 hour window is usually ideal for steady growth without algae issues.

🌸 High-tech planted tanks (CO2 injected): 6-8 hours per day. With high light and CO2, plants photosynthesize efficiently, so you don’t need a super long photoperiod. Many high-tech aquascapers run 6-7 hour photoperiods with great results.

Common mistakes to avoid:

• ❌ Running lights 24/7: Fish need darkness to sleep, and constant light causes massive algae blooms
• ❌ Irregular schedule: Random on/off times stress fish and cause algae. Use a timer!
• ❌ Too many hours + too much light: This is the #1 cause of algae outbreaks in new planted tanks
• ❌ Midday break myth: A “siesta” (turning lights off for 2-3 hours midday) was once popular but isn’t necessary if you have balanced nutrients and a reasonable photoperiod

It depends on what you mean by “regular” — here’s the honest truth:

Household LED bulbs / strip lights: Generally no, they won’t grow aquarium plants well. Here’s why:

• Wrong spectrum: Standard household LEDs are designed for human vision, not plant photosynthesis. They often lack the specific red and blue wavelengths that plants need most.
• Not waterproof: Regular LED strips aren’t designed for humid aquarium environments and will fail quickly or become a safety hazard.
• Wrong intensity: Household LEDs are usually too dim or too directional for aquarium use.
• No heat management: LEDs near water need proper heat sinking to prevent failure.

What about “daylight” LED strips from the hardware store?

While 5000K-6500K daylight strips technically have a broad spectrum, they typically don’t have enough intensity at the right wavelengths. You might grow very low-demand plants like java moss or anubias slowly, but don’t expect a lush planted tank.

What WILL grow aquarium plants:

• ✅ Purpose-built aquarium LED lights with full spectrum output
• ✅ Lights specifically marketed as “planted aquarium” or “plant growth” LEDs
• ✅ Lights that list specific wavelengths (430-460nm blue, 620-660nm red)
• ✅ Lights with PAR ratings or wattage recommendations for planted tanks

Budget-friendly options that work: Brands like Nicrew, Hygger, and Beamswork make affordable planted tank LEDs that actually grow plants. You don’t need to spend $300+ on a high-end light — but you do need a light designed for the job.

The best light color for freshwater fish is a natural-looking full spectrum around 6500K-7000K — it enhances fish colors and looks great to the human eye.

How different light colors affect fish appearance:

• Warm white (3000K-4000K): Yellowish, sunrise/sunset vibe. Brings out oranges and reds in fish but can make plants look dull. Good for cichlid tanks and goldfish tanks where you want to emphasize warm colors.
• Daylight / Neutral white (5500K-7000K): The most natural-looking option. Crisp white light that shows fish and plants in their true colors. This is the standard for most freshwater aquariums and planted tanks. 6500K is often called the “sweet spot.”
• Cool white (8000K-10000K): Bluish-white, like bright daylight or shallow reef water. Can make fish look washed out. More common in saltwater/reef tanks.
• Blue-only / “moonlight”: Just blue LEDs. Looks dramatic and can make fluorescent fish glow, but provides zero benefit for plants. Use only as a night viewing mode, not as your main light.
• RGB / color-changing: Fun for parties or special occasions, but not ideal as a primary light source for fish health or plant growth.

Our recommendation for most freshwater tanks:

Stick with a full spectrum 6500K-7000K LED light. It’s the most natural-looking, supports healthy plant growth if you have live plants, and brings out the best colors in your fish. If your light has adjustable color channels, you can fine-tune it to your preference — a slight boost in the red channel can really make red and orange fish pop.

Fish stress and lighting: Sudden changes in light intensity or color can stress fish. That’s why lights with gradual “sunrise” and “sunset” dimming are worth the investment — they’re much easier on your fish’s eyes and natural rhythms.

No, shrimp do NOT eat fish poop as a primary food source — this is a common aquarium myth.

Here’s the truth about what shrimp actually eat and their role in your tank’s cleanup crew:

What shrimp really eat:

• Algae — This is their main food source, especially for algae-eating shrimp like Amano shrimp and Cherry shrimp
• Biofilm — The thin layer of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, tiny organisms) that grows on all surfaces in a mature tank
• Uneaten food — They’ll scavenge leftover fish food that falls to the bottom
• Dead plant matter — Decaying leaves and plant debris
• Dead animals — If a fish or snail dies, shrimp will eat the carcass (this is actually beneficial)

Why the “shrimp eat fish poop” myth exists:

Shrimp are often seen sifting through the substrate near fish waste, which makes people think they’re eating it. What they’re actually doing is picking at the biofilm and bacteria growing on the surface of the waste, and any uneaten food particles mixed in. They’re not consuming the feces itself.

The bottom line: Shrimp are great cleanup crew members and help keep your tank clean, but they won’t solve a fish poop problem. For that, you need proper filtration (including a magnetic fish toilet pre-filter to catch solid waste), regular water changes, and good tank maintenance habits.

Generally, no — most aquarium snails do not eat fish poop as a primary food source. This is another persistent aquarium myth.

What aquarium snails actually eat:

• Algae — The #1 food source for most freshwater snails (nerite snails, ramshorn snails, mystery snails, Malaysian trumpet snails)
• Uneaten fish food — They scavenge leftover flakes, pellets, and wafers from the substrate
• Dead plant matter — Rotting leaves and decaying vegetation
• Dead animals — They’ll consume dead fish, shrimp, or other snails (nature’s cleanup crew)
• Biofilm and detritus — The organic gunk that accumulates on surfaces
• Calcium sources — Many snails eat cuttlebone or calcium-rich foods to build their shells

Why people think snails eat fish poop:

Snails glide over every surface in the tank, including areas with fish waste. They’re actually grazing on algae, bacteria, and biofilm that’s growing on and around the waste — not the waste itself. Their slow, methodical movement makes it look like they’re consuming everything in their path.

What about Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS)?

MTS are burrowers that sift through the substrate. They do ingest some organic detritus mixed with fish waste, but they’re primarily eating the microorganisms and decaying organic matter in the substrate, not the feces directly. Their burrowing does help aerate the substrate and speed up decomposition of organic matter, which is beneficial.

Let’s get this straight: no common aquarium animal eats fish poop as a primary food source. Fish waste is broken down by natural biological processes, not by being eaten.

Here’s what actually “deals with” fish poop in your aquarium:

🦠 Beneficial bacteria (the real heroes):

• Heterotrophic bacteria break down solid fish waste into ammonia (this is why waste seems to “disappear” over time)
• Nitrifying bacteria then convert ammonia → nitrite → nitrate (the nitrogen cycle)
• These bacteria live in your filter media, on substrate, and on all surfaces
• This is why biological filtration is so important — it’s how your tank processes waste

🐛 Detritivores (they help, but don’t eat poop directly):

• Snails — Eat algae, biofilm, and uneaten food around waste areas
• Shrimp — Pick at biofilm and leftover food, not the waste itself
• Malaysian Trumpet Snails — Burrow through substrate, aerating it and speeding up bacterial decomposition
• Corydoras and other bottom feeders — Sift through substrate for uneaten food, not feces

🧹 What actually removes fish waste from your tank:

• Mechanical filtration — Filter sponges and floss trap solid waste particles. Pair with a fish toilet filter pre-filter for best results.
• Water changes — Dilutes dissolved waste products (nitrates, DOCs)
• Gravel vacuuming — Physically removes waste that settles in the substrate
• Pre-filters like the Magnetic Fish Toilet — Catch solid waste before it enters your main filter, making waste removal as simple as a 3-second flush

No — catfish do not eat fish poop. This is one of the most persistent myths in the aquarium hobby, and it’s simply not true.

What catfish actually eat:

• Algae — Some species like plecos and otocinclus eat algae as their main food source
• Uneaten food — Bottom-dwelling catfish like corydoras and pictus catfish scavenge leftover food from the substrate
• Insects and larvae — Many catfish species are omnivores or carnivores that eat small invertebrates
• Vegetation — Some species eat plant matter and blanched vegetables
• Wood (for plecos): — Wood fiber is an important part of many pleco species’ diets for digestion

Why the myth persists:

Catfish spend all day at the bottom of the tank, sifting through the substrate with their barbels. They’re looking for uneaten food, small invertebrates, and algae — but people see them rooting around in the same area where fish waste accumulates and assume they’re eating it.

Common “algae eater” catfish and what they really do:

• Plecos (suckermouth catfish): Eat algae, biofilm, and vegetable matter. They do NOT eat fish waste. Large plecos actually produce a LOT of waste themselves!
• Corydoras catfish: Schooling bottom feeders that sift substrate for uneaten food and tiny organisms. Great for cleanup but not waste management.
• Otocinclus catfish: Tiny algae-eating specialists. They only eat algae and biofilm.
• Chinese Algae Eater: Eats algae when young, becomes aggressive and eats less algae as it matures. Definitely does NOT eat poop.

Absolutely not — plecos do NOT eat fish poop. In fact, large plecos are actually some of the messiest, highest-waste-producing fish you can keep!

What plecos actually eat:

• Algae — Young plecos eat a lot of algae, but as they grow, algae becomes a smaller portion of their diet
• Vegetables — Blanched zucchini, cucumber, spinach, and sweet potato are favorites
• Wood fiber — Many pleco species (especially bristlenose and common plecos) need wood in their diet for proper digestion
• Sinking pellets / wafers — Algae wafers and sinking pellets provide balanced nutrition
• Protein (occasionally) — Some pleco species will eat frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp as a treat

The pleco waste myth — debunked:

Plecos have a very long digestive tract (they’re basically swimming compost bins for plant matter), which means they produce a LOT of their own waste. A full-grown common pleco (which can reach 18+ inches) produces more waste than most other fish in the tank combined!

People see plecos sucking on the glass and assume they’re cleaning up everything — including waste. What they’re actually doing is grazing on algae and biofilm on the glass, decorations, and substrate. They never intentionally consume fish feces.

Reality check for pleco owners:

• Common plecos get HUGE (12-24 inches) and need 75+ gallon tanks
• They produce massive amounts of waste — far more than they “clean up”
• Bristlenose plecos (max 4-6 inches) are a much better choice for most tanks
• You’ll need strong filtration (and ideally a magnetic fish toilet pre-filter) to handle the bioload

No — bottom feeders do NOT eat fish poop. This is one of the most widespread misconceptions in the aquarium hobby. Let’s set the record straight.

Common bottom feeders and what they actually eat:

• Corydoras catfish: Sift substrate for uneaten food, tiny worms, and microorganisms. They’re looking for actual food, not waste.
• Plecos: Eat algae, vegetables, and wood fiber. Large plecos produce MORE waste than they clean up.
• Loaches (clown loach, kuhli loach): Eat worms, small crustaceans, and sinking foods. Omnivorous, but definitely not coprophagic (feces-eating).
• Botia loaches (yoyo, zebra): Eat snails, worms, and meaty foods. Great for pest snail control.
• Geophagus / “earth eater” cichlids: Sift sand for insects, small crustaceans, and plant matter. They spit out the sand after extracting food.
• Silver dollars / pacu: Herbivores that eat plant matter, not waste.

Why people think bottom feeders eat poop:

Bottom-dwelling fish spend all their time in the same areas where fish waste settles — on the substrate. They’re constantly sifting, pecking, and digging, which makes it look like they’re eating everything in sight. But they’re actually quite selective — they pick out food particles and ignore the waste.

What actually handles fish waste:

• 🦠 Beneficial bacteria — breaks waste down into ammonia → nitrite → nitrate
• 🧲 Mechanical pre-filters — like the Magnetic Fish Toilet, which catches solid waste before it enters your main filter
• 💧 Water changes — removes dissolved waste products
• 🧹 Gravel vacuuming — physically removes waste from the substrate

Some fish may occasionally nibble at their own waste or other fish’s waste, but they don’t actually eat it as food — and it’s not a normal part of their diet.

Why fish sometimes pick at waste:

• They mistake it for food: If fish are underfed or bored, they may investigate anything that even remotely looks like food — including waste. They usually spit it right back out once they realize what it is.
• They’re eating what’s ON the waste: Waste particles can have uneaten food, algae, or biofilm on the surface. Fish might pick at the waste to get to the actual food particles attached to it.
• Coprophagia in some species: A very small number of fish species (certain catfish, for example) have been documented ingesting feces to obtain beneficial gut bacteria — similar to how some animals eat their mother’s feces to establish gut flora. But this is rare and not the same as “eating poop for food.”

Is it harmful?

Occasionally nibbling at waste isn’t harmful — fish do plenty of weird things. But if you notice your fish frequently going after waste, it could be a sign of:

• Underfeeding: If fish are hungry, they’ll try to eat anything. Make sure you’re feeding enough.
• Boredom: Understimulated fish may develop unusual behaviors. Add more hiding spots and enrichment.
• Poor water quality: Stress from bad water can cause abnormal behavior. Test your water parameters.

How to reduce waste in your tank:

• Don’t overfeed — feed only what fish can consume in 2-3 minutes, twice a day
• Use a fish toilet filter pre-filter to catch solid waste before it decomposes
• Do regular weekly water changes (20-30%)
• Vacuum the substrate during water changes
• Don’t overstock your tank

Fish excrete waste through several different pathways — it’s not all “poop” in the way we think about it.

Solid waste (feces):

• Fish have an opening called the anus, located on the underside of their body near the base of the tail (just behind the anal fin)
• This is where digested food exits the body as solid waste
• The digestive system of a fish is relatively short and simple compared to mammals
• Some fish (like goldfish) don’t have a true stomach — food passes from the esophagus directly into the intestine, meaning they process food quickly and produce waste almost constantly

Liquid waste (urine / ammonia):

• Fish excrete nitrogenous waste (mostly ammonia) primarily through their gills — yes, they basically “pee” through their gills!
• Ammonia is highly toxic, which is why the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium is so important
• Fish also have kidneys that filter blood and produce dilute urine, excreted through the urinary pore near the anus
• Freshwater fish produce a lot of dilute urine (they’re constantly taking in water by osmosis), while saltwater fish produce very small amounts of concentrated urine

Why this matters for your aquarium:

• Solid waste — Can be caught by mechanical filtration and pre-filters like the Magnetic Fish Toilet. This is the “visible” waste you see.
• Dissolved waste (ammonia) — Can’t be filtered mechanically. It’s processed by beneficial bacteria in your biological filter. This is the “invisible” waste that’s actually the most dangerous to fish.

This is why you need both mechanical AND biological filtration for a healthy aquarium. Mechanical filters (and pre-filters) remove the solid stuff, while biological filters handle the toxic dissolved waste.

Fish waste is unavoidable, but there are several effective ways to manage and remove it from your aquarium:

1. Mechanical Pre-Filtration (the most efficient method):

• Install a Magnetic Fish Toilet pre-filter on your filter’s intake line
• It catches solid fish waste before it enters your main filter media
• Removing waste takes just 3 seconds — twist the magnetic ring and flush the collected waste into a bucket
• Dramatically reduces how often you need to clean your main filter
• Prevents waste from breaking down and releasing ammonia into the water

2. Regular Water Changes with Gravel Vacuuming:

• Do 20-30% weekly water changes
• Use a gravel vacuum (siphon) to suck waste out of the substrate
• Focus on areas where waste accumulates — under decorations, around filter intakes, and in corners
• This removes both solid waste and dissolved waste products like nitrates

3. Proper Mechanical Filtration:

• Filter sponges, floss, and filter pads trap waste particles
• Rinse mechanical media in tank water (never tap water — it kills beneficial bacteria) during regular maintenance
• Pair with a magnetic aquarium filter pre-filter to extend the life of your mechanical media

4. Good Tank Maintenance Habits:

• Don’t overfeed — uneaten food is a major source of waste. Feed only what fish can eat in 2-3 minutes
• Don’t overstock — more fish = more waste. Follow stocking guidelines
• Use adequate filtration — your filter should turn over 4-10x your tank volume per hour, depending on fish type
• Maintain your biological filter — beneficial bacteria break down dissolved waste

Yes, you can put Gundam models in an aquarium — but only if you properly prepare and seal them first! Unsealed plastic model kits can leach harmful chemicals into your water and harm your fish.

Why you can’t just put a regular Gundam kit in water:

• Plastic cement / glue: The solvents in model cement can leach into water and be toxic to fish
• Paint: Most model paints (acrylic and enamel) are not aquarium-safe and can flake or leach chemicals
• Decals: Water-slide decals will dissolve or peel off in water
• Plastic additives: Some plastics contain plasticizers or other additives that can leach out
• Small parts: Loose pieces can be ingested by fish or clog your filter

How to make Gundam aquarium-safe (the proper method):

1. Build the model — Assemble your Gundam kit completely. Use as little glue as possible, or use non-toxic adhesive options.
2. Sand and smooth — Remove any rough edges or nubs that could harm fish.
3. Seal with aquarium-safe sealant — This is the most important step. Use 100% silicone sealant that is labeled “aquarium-safe” or “food-grade.” Apply 2-3 thin coats, covering every surface. Allow each coat to cure fully (24-48 hours per coat).
4. Alternative: Use epoxy resin — Some hobbyists use food-safe or aquarium-safe epoxy resin to fully encapsulate the model. This creates a hard, waterproof barrier.
5. Cure completely — Let the sealed model cure for at least 72 hours before adding to water.
6. Test in a bucket first — Soak the sealed model in a bucket of dechlorinated water for 3-7 days. If the water stays clear and has no unusual odor, it’s probably safe.

Important safety notes:

• Never use enamel paints, lacquers, or solvent-based products on anything going in your aquarium
• Avoid models with small, easily detachable parts if you have large fish that might try to eat them
• Metal parts (like photo-etched details) can rust — either remove them or seal them thoroughly
• Always monitor your fish for signs of stress after adding any new decoration

Preparing Gundam model kits for aquarium use requires careful sealing to make them fish-safe. Follow this step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Choose and build your kit

• SD/BB kits are great for small tanks — they’re compact and have fewer small parts
• HG (High Grade) 1/144 scale works well for medium to large tanks
• MG (Master Grade) 1/100 scale is best for 55+ gallon tanks
• Build the kit fully but consider gluing moving parts in place to prevent them from coming loose underwater
• Use minimal plastic cement — excess solvent can be problematic

Step 2: Paint (optional, but if you do it, do it right)

• If you want to paint your Gundam, use acrylic paints only (no enamel, no lacquer)
• Let paint cure completely for at least 48 hours
• Note: Even acrylic paint can leach or peel without a proper sealant coat

Step 3: Apply aquarium-safe sealant (CRITICAL STEP)

• Use 100% silicone aquarium sealant (GE Silicone I Aquarium Sealant or equivalent — must be labeled “aquarium safe” and contain no fungicides or additives)
• Apply thin, even coats using a brush or by dipping small parts
• Pay special attention to seams, joints, and any areas where glue was used
• Apply 2-3 coats, allowing each coat to cure for 24-48 hours
• Make sure every surface — inside and out — is completely covered

Step 4: Cure and test

• Let the final sealant coat cure for at least 72 hours (5-7 days is even better)
• Soak the model in a bucket of dechlorinated water for 3-7 days
• Check the water daily — if it turns cloudy, develops a film, or has a chemical smell, it needs more curing or another sealant coat
• Test pH and ammonia in the test bucket — both should be stable

Step 5: Add to your tank

• Rinse the model one more time before placing it in the tank
• Position it securely — you may want to bury the feet in the substrate or use aquarium-safe adhesive to attach it to a rock or base
• Monitor your fish closely for the first week for any signs of stress

We ship worldwide with fully trackable delivery. Here are typical delivery times to major destinations:

• 🇺🇸 United States: 6-12 business days
• 🇨🇦 Canada: 8-14 business days
• 🇬🇧 United Kingdom: 7-14 business days
• 🇩🇪 Germany, France, Italy, Spain & other EU: 7-14 business days
• 🇦🇺 Australia: 8-15 business days
• 🇳🇿 New Zealand: 10-18 business days
• 🇯🇵 Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia: 7-12 business days
• 🇦🇪 UAE, Saudi Arabia: 8-15 business days
• 🇲🇽 Mexico: 8-14 business days
• 🌍 Other destinations: 10-20 business days

All orders are processed within 0-2 business days (Monday through Saturday). Orders placed before 5:00 PM CST usually ship the same day.

What can cause delays?

• Customs clearance in the destination country (usually 1-3 days, but occasionally longer)
• Peak holiday seasons (November-December can add 2-5 days)
• Weather events or carrier disruptions

Yes — we offer FREE worldwide trackable shipping on every single order. No minimum, no fine print, no coupon codes needed.

We believe shipping shouldn’t be a hidden fee or a surprise at checkout. What you see is what you pay — period.

What’s included with free shipping:

• ✅ Full tracking number (sent via email as soon as your order ships)
• ✅ Delivery confirmation
• ✅ 6-12 day average delivery to the US / 7-14 days to most other countries
• ✅ Safe, secure packaging with bubble wrap and rigid mailers to protect your order
• ✅ No surprise fees at checkout

Why we offer free shipping:

As a direct-to-consumer aquarium equipment brand, we keep our overhead low and pass the savings on to you. We’d rather include shipping in the product price than nickel-and-dime you at checkout. It’s simpler for everyone.

Whether you’re ordering a single Standard Edition Magnetic Fish Toilet or a bulk wholesale order, shipping is always on us.

Tracking your order is easy — here’s how:

1. As soon as your order ships, you’ll receive a shipping confirmation email with your tracking number and a direct tracking link.
2. Click the tracking link in that email to see real-time updates on your package’s location.
3. You can also track directly on our website via the Track Order page — just enter your order number and the email address you used to place the order.

What to expect during shipping:

• Day 1-2: Order processing & handoff to carrier
• Day 2-4: International departure & transit
• Day 5-8: Arrival in destination country & customs clearance
• Day 6-12: Local delivery to your door

Common tracking questions:

• “My tracking hasn’t updated in a few days — is it lost?” Not necessarily. International shipments often have gaps in tracking while in transit or during customs clearance. Give it a few more days, and contact us if it’s been more than 10 business days with no updates.
• “I haven’t received a tracking number yet.” Check your spam or promotions folder. If it’s not there, contact us and we’ll resend it.

We’ve got you completely covered — 100% satisfaction guaranteed.

We ship with reliable tracked carriers and use sturdy packaging, but if something does go wrong, here’s what you need to know:

• Lost package: If your tracking shows no updates for 15+ business days and the carrier confirms it’s lost, we’ll either reship your order at no extra cost or issue a full refund — your choice, no questions asked.
• Damaged in transit: If your magnetic fish toilet or other item arrives damaged, take photos of the packaging AND the product, then contact us within 30 days of delivery. We’ll send a replacement right away.
• Wrong item sent: If we made a mistake and sent the wrong product or version, we’ll correct it immediately — including covering all return shipping costs and sending the correct item ASAP.
• Stolen package: If tracking shows “delivered” but you didn’t receive your package, let us know. We’ll work with the carrier to investigate and typically file a claim on your behalf. Depending on the outcome, we may offer a replacement or refund.

Your purchase is 100% protected. You never have to worry about losing your money to shipping issues — that’s our problem, not yours.

We ship to 33 countries worldwide!

We currently ship to:

• 🇺🇸 United States, 🇨🇦 Canada, 🇲🇽 Mexico
• 🇬🇧 United Kingdom, 🇮🇪 Ireland, 🇫🇷 France, 🇩🇪 Germany, 🇮🇹 Italy, 🇪🇸 Spain, 🇳🇱 Netherlands, 🇧🇪 Belgium, 🇦🇹 Austria, 🇨🇭 Switzerland, 🇩🇰 Denmark, 🇫🇮 Finland, 🇸🇪 Sweden, 🇳🇴 Norway, 🇵🇱 Poland, 🇵🇹 Portugal, 🇬🇷 Greece, 🇭🇺 Hungary, 🇨🇿 Czechia, 🇸🇰 Slovakia, 🇷🇴 Romania
• 🇦🇺 Australia, 🇳🇿 New Zealand
• 🇯🇵 Japan, 🇭🇰 Hong Kong, 🇲🇾 Malaysia, 🇹🇼 Taiwan, 🇺🇦 United Arab Emirates, 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia
• 🇺🇦 Ukraine

How to check if we ship to your country:

1. Add your items to the cart
2. Go to checkout and start entering your address
3. If your country is available, it will appear in the dropdown list

If you don’t see your country listed, reach out to us with your full address and we’ll check if we can arrange shipping. We’re always expanding our delivery network!

We accept a wide range of payment methods for your convenience:

• 💳 Credit / Debit Cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover, Diners Club, JCB
• 🅿️ PayPal: Full PayPal checkout available — buyer protection included. You can also pay with PayPal Credit if available in your region.
• 🍎 Apple Pay: Fast, secure one-click checkout for Apple device users
• 🤖 Google Pay: Quick checkout with your Google account
• 💰 Shop Pay: Save your payment info for faster checkout on future orders
• 🌐 Local payment methods: Depending on your region, you may see additional options like iDEAL (Netherlands), Bancontact (Belgium), EPS (Austria), giropay (Germany), and more

Security: All transactions are secured with SSL encryption. We never store your full card details on our servers — payments are processed by industry-leading payment providers (Stripe and PayPal) that meet the highest security standards.

Currency: All prices are in USD (US Dollars). Your bank or card provider will handle the currency conversion at their current exchange rate. You can use the currency selector on our website to see approximate prices in your local currency, but the final charge will always be in USD.

Yes — as long as your order hasn’t shipped yet.

We process orders very quickly (often the same day), but here’s what you need to know:

• Before shipping: If your order is still being processed in our warehouse, we can modify sizes, add/remove items, update your address, or cancel entirely for a full refund. Just contact us as soon as possible.
• After shipping: Once your order is in transit, we can’t modify or cancel it — but you can still return it within 30 days of delivery if needed.

How to modify or cancel your order:

1. Email alaric.xin@aquagearsupplies.com with your order number in the subject line
2. Tell us what you’d like to change or that you want to cancel
3. We’ll confirm within 24 hours and process your request

Common modifications we can help with:

• Switching from Standard to Monster Edition (or vice versa)
• Adding a surface skimmer upgrade
• Updating your shipping address
• Adding more items to your order
• Full cancellation with refund

No — you can check out as a guest without creating an account.

We believe in making your shopping experience as simple as possible. You’re welcome to purchase our magnetic fish toilet and other products without signing up for anything.

Guest checkout benefits:

• ✅ No password to remember
• ✅ No marketing emails unless you opt in
• ✅ Same fast shipping and great service
• ✅ You’ll still receive order confirmations and tracking updates via email

Why create an account? (Optional, but here are the perks)

• ⭐ Faster checkout: Save your shipping and payment info for next time
• ⭐ Order history: See all your past orders in one place
• ⭐ Easy tracking: Track all your orders from your account dashboard
• ⭐ Wishlist: Save products you’re interested in for later
• ⭐ Exclusive offers: Account holders get early access to sales and new product launches

Creating an account takes less than 30 seconds, and you can do it during checkout or from the account page. It’s completely optional — shop however is most convenient for you.

We stand behind the quality of our products with a fair, customer-first return policy.

Here’s how it works:

• 30-day return window — You have 30 calendar days from the date of delivery to initiate a return for standard, non-custom items. Items must be unused, in the same condition that you received them, and in their original packaging.
• Custom products are final sale: All custom-made products and services (including custom-sized items, engraved products, and personalized filtration setups) are NOT eligible for return or refund unless they arrive damaged, defective, or are fundamentally different from the agreed-upon specifications.
• Options to make it right: We’ll work with you to provide a replacement part, a custom adapter solution, or process a full refund — whichever works best for your situation.
• Return shipping: For returns due to our error (wrong item shipped, defective product), we will cover the return shipping costs and provide a prepaid label. For all other returns (change of mind, wrong size, etc.), the customer is responsible for all return shipping charges. Original shipping fees are non-refundable. For international returns, you are responsible for any customs duties, taxes, or fees associated with the return shipment.

How to start a return or request a refund:

1. Contact our customer service team — Email us at alaric.xin@aquagearsupplies.com within the 30-day return period. Please include your order number and a detailed reason for your return.
2. Provide supporting information — For damaged, defective, or incorrect items, we may require clear photographs or a short video to assess the issue.
3. Receive your Return Authorization (RMA) — If your return is approved, we will issue you a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) Number and provide the return shipping address. Returns shipped without a valid RMA number will not be accepted.
4. We process your request — After we receive and inspect your returned item, we’ll notify you of approval or rejection. If approved, your refund will be processed and applied to your original payment method within 3-10 business days.

We specialize in niche aquarium hardware and understand that every tank setup is different. We’ll always try to find a solution — like recommending a different adapter or providing installation tips — before you need to return anything.

Yes — all A&Aqua Pro products come with a 1-year manufacturer warranty.

What’s covered under warranty:

• Manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship
• Magnet strength issues or magnet failure
• Acrylic cracking (not caused by impact or misuse)
• Valve seal failures
• Connector or fitting defects

What’s NOT covered under warranty:

• Damage from drops, impacts, or improper installation
• Normal wear and tear (e.g., silicone gasket aging after 1-2 years of use)
• Damage from chemicals, abrasive cleaners, or incompatible products
• Lost or damaged parts due to user error or neglect
• Damage caused by using the product outside its intended use (e.g., using a Standard Edition on a high-flow system it’s not rated for)

If you experience any issues within the warranty period, just contact us with your order number and photos of the problem. We’ll typically resolve warranty claims within 3-5 business days — usually by sending a replacement part or a full new unit, depending on the issue.

Starting a return or exchange is simple — here’s the process:

1. Contact us first — Email alaric.xin@aquagearsupplies.com within the 30-day return period with your order number and a description of the issue. Please include photos or a short video if the item is damaged or defective.
2. We review your request — Our support team will get back to you within 24-48 hours with next steps. In many cases, we can solve the issue with a quick tip or a free replacement part without you needing to return anything.
3. Receive your RMA number — If a return is needed, we’ll issue you a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) Number and provide the return shipping address. Returns shipped without a valid RMA number will not be accepted. Please pack the item securely with all original accessories.
4. We process your request — After we receive and inspect your returned item, we’ll notify you of approval or rejection. If approved, we’ll issue your refund or send your replacement. Refunds are applied to your original payment method within 3-10 business days.

Exchanges: We only replace items if they are defective, damaged, or if we sent the wrong item. If you need a different variant of a standard accessory, we recommend returning the original item for a refund and placing a new order.

Who pays for return shipping?

• If the item is defective or we made a mistake: We cover all return shipping costs. We’ll either provide a prepaid label or reimburse you for reasonable shipping costs.
• If you’re returning for other reasons (wrong size, changed your mind, etc.): You’re responsible for all return shipping charges. Original shipping fees are non-refundable. For international returns, you are responsible for any customs duties, taxes, or fees associated with the return shipment. We recommend using a trackable and insured shipping service.

Refund timing: Refunds go back to your original payment method and typically take 3-10 business days to appear, depending on your bank or card provider’s processing time. Partial refunds may be issued if the returned item shows signs of use, damage, or is not in its original condition.

Here’s the typical timeline for refunds:

For orders canceled before shipping:

• We process the refund immediately upon your request
• The funds should appear in your account within 3-5 business days
• PayPal refunds are usually instant or within 24 hours

For returned items:

• Once we receive your return, we inspect it within 1-2 business days
• If everything checks out, we issue the refund the same day
• Bank/card refunds take 3-10 business days to process (depending on your bank)
• PayPal refunds are typically instant

Why do refunds take time?

The delay between when we issue a refund and when you see it in your account is due to your bank or card provider’s internal processing. As soon as we submit the refund, it’s out of our hands — but you should see it within the timeframe above.

What if I don’t see my refund?

• Check your bank statement carefully — it may appear as a credit from our payment processor (Stripe or PayPal)
• If it’s been more than 10 business days, contact your bank first — they may have the refund pending
• If you still don’t see it, contact us and we’ll verify the refund was processed correctly

We’re sorry — that’s frustrating! But we’ll make it right, guaranteed.

While we carefully pack every order and quality-check each product before shipping, occasionally damage can happen in transit or a rare defect can slip through. Here’s what to do:

Step 1: Document everything (within 7 days)

• Take photos of the shipping box (especially if it’s crushed or damaged)
• Take photos of the damaged or defective product
• Note your order number and the date you received the package

Step 2: Contact us immediately

• Email alaric.xin@aquagearsupplies.com within 7 calendar days of delivery with your order number and photos
• We’ll respond within 24-48 hours (usually much sooner)
• Describe what’s damaged or not working so we can help as quickly as possible

Step 3: We make it right

• Minor issues: We may send a replacement part right away — no need to return the original
• Major damage or defects: We’ll send a full replacement unit as soon as possible
• If you prefer a refund: We can process a full refund instead — your choice

Our guarantee: You never pay for shipping on replacements for defective or damaged items. We cover 100% of the cost, including shipping. We may not require the return of the damaged item. Your job is just to let us know there’s a problem — we handle the rest.

We’re here to help! You can reach our customer support team in several ways:

📧 Email (best for most questions):

• alaric.xin@aquagearsupplies.com
• Response time: Within 24-48 hours (usually faster on business days)
• Perfect for: order questions, technical support, wholesale inquiries, fit questions, returns

📝 Contact Form:

• Fill out the form on our Contact page
• Same response time as email
• Great if you prefer using a web form

💬 Social Media:

• Instagram, Facebook, TikTok — @aquagearsupplies
• We respond to DMs and comments regularly
• Perfect for quick questions and community discussions

What to include in your message for the fastest help:

• Your order number (if you have one)
• Photos of the issue (if applicable — a picture is worth a thousand words!)
• Your filter model and tank size (for technical questions)
• A clear description of what you need help with

Absolutely — we regularly fulfill multi-unit bulk shipments for retailers, distributors, and aquarium shops worldwide.

Whether you’re a local fish store looking to stock our Magnetic Fish Toilet pre-filters, an online retailer expanding your aquarium product catalog, or a maintenance company outfitting client tanks, we’ve got you covered.

What we offer wholesale partners:

• ✅ Tiered pricing based on volume (the more you order, the better the per-unit rate)
• ✅ Worldwide shipping with bulk logistics rates
• ✅ Split shipments to multiple store locations if needed
• ✅ Marketing materials and professional product images for resale
• ✅ Priority processing for wholesale orders
• ✅ Dedicated account manager for ongoing partners
• ✅ Flexible payment terms for established partners

Our products are unique in the market — the magnetic fish toilet is a patented design that stands out from generic pre-filters. It’s a high-margin, fast-selling item that appeals to both beginner and experienced aquarium hobbyists.

To get started, reach out via our Contact page with your business info and estimated order quantity. We’ll get back to you with a wholesale quote within 24-48 hours.

Our wholesale minimum starts at just 10 units — lower than most aquarium equipment suppliers.

We believe in growing with our partners, so we keep MOQs accessible for small shops and startup businesses:

• Starter Tier (10-24 units): Entry-level wholesale pricing — perfect for testing the product in your store or online shop. Great for small local fish stores and boutique aquarium shops.
• Growth Tier (25-49 units): Better per-unit pricing — for established retailers with steady demand and proven sales volume.
• Partner Tier (50+ units): Our best pricing with exclusive perks — for high-volume resellers, distributors, and large chain stores.

We can mix and match versions within a single wholesale order to match your customer base:

• Standard Edition (Universal Glass-Mount)
• Standard Edition + Surface Skimmer
• Standard Edition (Hidden Cabinet Inline)
• Monster Edition (Universal Glass-Mount)
• Monster Edition + Surface Skimmer

Yes — we offer private label and custom branding options for qualified partners.

If you want to sell the Magnetic Fish Toilet under your own brand name or add it to your existing product line with your branding, we can make it happen.

Custom branding options include:

• Custom-printed retail packaging with your logo, brand colors, and product copy
• Branded product labels and stickers
• Custom instruction manuals with your brand info, website, and support contact
• White-label option (no A&Aqua Pro branding anywhere on the product or packaging)
• Custom barcodes and SKU assignment

Requirements:

• Minimum order: Private labeling requires a minimum order of 100 units
• Setup fee: A one-time setup fee covers tooling, design, and plate creation
• Lead time: Custom-branded orders typically take 3-4 weeks from design approval to shipping
• Design approval: You’ll receive digital proofs before we go into production

Private labeling is a great way to build your brand and increase profit margins. You get a proven, high-quality product with your own branding — no product development costs or manufacturing headaches.

Interested? Contact us with your brand details and estimated volume, and we’ll send you a full custom branding proposal with pricing and lead times.

Getting set up with a wholesale account is simple — here’s the process:

1. Contact us — Use our Contact page and select “Wholesale Inquiry” as the subject. Please include:
   • Your business name and website (or social media links)
   • Your country/region
   • Estimated order quantity and frequency
   • Any specific product versions you’re interested in
   • Your business registration number or tax ID (for verification)
2. We review your application — We’ll get back to you within 24-48 hours with wholesale pricing tiers and next steps. We may ask for a few more details about your business to make sure we’re a good fit.
3. Place your first order — Once approved, place your first wholesale order with a 50% deposit (balance due before shipping). We accept bank transfers, PayPal business payments, and credit cards for wholesale orders.
4. Ongoing partnership — Once your first order is complete, you’ll have an active wholesale account with:
   • Priority support and faster response times
   • Exclusive updates on new products and versions
   • Early access to promotions and bulk deals
   • Potential for exclusive distribution rights in your region

We currently partner with aquarium shops, online retailers, and maintenance companies in 15+ countries and are always looking for quality partners to grow with.